Monday, January 27, 2014

A Drunken Night on Pub Street

The entrance to our guesthouse, Alibi.
For both Allan and myself, leaving Sihanoukville was really difficult.  It truly felt like we were leaving our own strip of paradise behind.  We knew that 4 days beach side wasn't enough time to begin with and, while there, we began to fantasize about leaving our jobs behind and moving to this remote beach side town where life, and time, stood still.

Pub Street: The place for drinking and debauchery
After realizing that we'd most likely only be able to afford a good two months of beach side living without jobs, we boarded a bus to Siem Reap, our last stop in Cambodia and our home for the next 6 days.

The awesome Max and Emma.  Our Stray Asia friends.
Siem Reap is absolutely breathtaking.  The architecture is very French Colonial complete with awnings on windows and verandas on the second level of every  building.  The town itself isn't that big but what it lacks in size it makes up for in character, tenfold.  A river runs directly through the town and either side of the river are shops, cafes, guesthouses and street carts.  Siem Reap still remains one of our favorite stops along the way.

My worst mistake was ordering a G&T bucket as NO ONE else would help me drink it
We checked into the cutest guesthouse that had the friendliest staff around.  The neat thing about this place was that it was locally owned by a fantastic Cambodian family which made you really feel like one of them, for a short time at least.  Another great thing about this place was it's proximity to everything fun, especially Pub Street.

Yes, I'm still drinking it
Even now, I am struggling with the words to describe Pub Street.  Okay, try this...think of Las Vegas' Fremont Street.  Complete with lights dangling everywhere, people dancing in the streets, beer replacing water and more street food than you could even think of eating.  Oh, and then times that by 2.  Seriously, it was a different party every night.  This night, though, we met up with two of our Stray Asia friends to have dinner and go dancing.

So cute
These two ruled the dance floor.  It was epic
And dancing we did.  Since there are really only two bars in the vicinity of Pub Street, we started at one and drank way too many buckets than went to the other one and drank way too many buckets there AND started dancing with everyone.  Yes, even Allan was dancing on stage.  Then we went back to the other bar and started drinking buckets again and dancing.  We actually ended up getting two free t-shirts out of it (YAY for drinking buckets) and woke up with the worst hang overs ever.

Poor hungover Allan
Best introduction to Siem Reap if I say so myself....

Tuesday, January 21, 2014

Leaving Otres Beach for the Day

Our boat du jour
After 3 days of relaxing, eating, drinking sunbathing, swimming and more relaxing, we knew we had to leave our hotel to see what the rest of Sihanoukville had to offer. So, we bought tickets from a beach hawker to do an island hop with some included snorkeling.

We were picked up at our hotel at 8:30 am via tuk-tuk and our driver took us to Otres 1 (about a 7 minute drive).  Once there, we were herded onto a shoddy looking boat with about 15 other people.  Shoddy or not, this boat was to take us snorkeling so Allan and I were thrilled.

On route to Koh Tas
This island hop was to take us to three different spots: Koh Tas (snorkeling only), Koh Russei (aka Bamboo Island) and Koh Ta Kiev (snorkeling only).

It's a snorkeling Christina!
Here fishy, fishy
The first spot took about an hour to get to.  Once there, we were given some snorkel gear and "told to avoid the sea urchins and to jump in".  So, jump in we did.  This spot, though beautiful, didn't have a lot of activity but the snorkeling was still fun.  We stayed here for about 45 minutes.  After we all boarded the boat, we headed over to Koh Russei (Bamboo Island) for the adventure portion of the trip.

After our jungle trek, we fall on the sand of a gorgeous hidden beach
We docked at Bamboo Island, the place we were to have lunch, and were told that we were going to walk through the jungle to do some swimming on the other side.  Walked through the jungle we did and ran into a King Cobra crossing the path.  I was screaming much to loud to get a picture (along with a few other travelers) and our guide then said that "we should never be wearing sunglasses in the jungle".  We learned out lesson for the trip back.

Beachfront property: Our lunch spot
Showing off the tan
Allan looking cool as ever
Anyway, we arrived at the other side and fell upon a beautiful beach.  Lone bungalows lined the beachfront, along with many other adventurers, and we all stayed here for a swim and some Angkor Beer.  Once happily sated with liquids, we made the scary jungle trek back to get some grub.

Our lunch was delicious: BBQ chicken, rice, coleslaw and baguettes.  After lunch, we relaxed for a bit on the beach, then boarded the boat again for our last stop: Koh Ta Kiev.

Looking oh so sexy in my snorkeling gear
It's the purple sea monster
This was again a snorkel-only spot and the same advice was given as the other spot, but this spot also included a "beware of reef sharks too".  On that note, we all flung ourselves over the edge of the boat to snorkel away.  After about 35 minutes, we all boarded the boat to go back to the main land.

Back at the bungalow in time for the setting sun
All in all, for a $15 adventure it was one of the best things we've ever done.  However, we're both thinking that maybe we should learn how to scuba dive to spice up our adventures....ha

Monday, January 20, 2014

Time For Da Beach

The floor of our bungalow
I am geographically and directionally challenged.

Seriously, I am.  Really badly, to be honest.

Thatched hut life!
The view from our bungalows
That thatched hut with the stairs on the right hand side was ours!
Before Allan and I started planning this trip, I really had no idea that specific areas of Cambodia were beachfront.  As soon as I started researching Cambodia, though, I realized, very quickly, that Cambodia had some amazing beaches.  Some beaches were so great that Allan and I knew we had to spend Christmas at one of them.

Ohh...I miss this beach
The front of our hotel
The ocean was so warm.  Perfect for swimming
We left Phnom Penh by 9am, via minibus, for our 6 hour adventure to Sihanoukville.  The ride was very uneventful, though we did stop at a very sketchy roadside stand for a quick "happy break".  The toilet was one of the worst I had ever been in.  I wish I took a picture but I was so concerned with not touching anything and I had already dropped my purse on the floor so a picture was out.  Anyway, after our happy break, we got back on the road and inched closer and closer to the beautiful water.

A sunset to die for
We arrived safe and sound to the Sihanoukville bus station.  However, since our beach was further from the main beach called Serendipity, we needed to hitch another ride to our beach called Otres 2.  After haggling with a tuk-tuk driver, we snagged a ride to Otres 2 and our beautiful new home for the next 4 days.

Swimming time!
Welcome to Elephant Garden Bungalows.  Home to one of the best beachfront views I've ever seen.  Oh and thatched beachfront huts with beautiful four-poster beds.  And mosquitoes...oh, the mosquitoes.  However, for a view like this, a few (million) mosquitoes couldn't keep me away.

Sigh....
Check out this sunset though.  Wouldn't you stay despite a few million mosquitoes???


Wednesday, January 15, 2014

A Difficult Day: The Killing Fields and S21

If you're spending anytime in Cambodia, it is important to take a day and learn about the country's unsettling recent history.  There has been a lot of fighting in the region over the centuries but this situation tends to stand out.  I'll post a link with greater detail than I can provide at the end of this post if you want to know more but I'll do my best to sum it up here.

The rebellion side of a Cambodian civil war in the early 70's won over the ruling government side, in what everyone thought was a very positive time in Cambodian history.  Unfortunately when the political arm of this rebellion (called the Khmer Rouge) came into power a lot of radical changes were made throughout the country.  Most business were closed, banks were closed, temples were ordered closed, and most of the country's population was sent out of the cities to work in the rice fields.  The Khmer Rouge had such a radical plan they feared anyone that did not share their views completely.  This translated to anyone with a decent education (doctors, lawyers, teachers), anyone that spoke more than one language, and as extreme as anyone wearing glasses.  These so called traitors were detained in prisons for questioning and tortured.  The torture part was all put together to force individuals to admitting to, and signing documents agreeing to doing things that essentially labeled them enemies of the state.  These 'confessions' were completely untrue and used only against the population to 'legally' detain more people, and justify punishment.

The S21 museum (Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum) was an old school that was turned into one of these detention centres.  As 4 year rule of the Khmer Rouge went on, the number of detainees grew, the cells got smaller and smaller, and the prisoner population got more diverse (read: preteen and younger).  The Khmer Rouge kept extremely accurate records of everything, a good chunk of which is on display for viewing.  This includes pictures taken of each detainee brought into S21.  The museum took about 1.5-2 hours to get through and we really did not feel the need to take pictures.

When the prisons (like S21) were too full, the prisoners were rounded up at night and moved outside of the cities to be executed.  Using the forced confessions attained in the detention centres as a legal and valid basis for executing these innocent people, the executions were brutal and indiscriminate.  Women, children, anyone that arrived at these 'Killing Fields' were not going to return home.  There are several - 20 plus - killing fields all around Cambodia.  The site we visited was one in particular that was turned into a visitation centre just outside Phnom Penh and is called Choeung Ek.  This particular killing field was the final stop for most of the executed detainees from S21.  20,000 people were recorded as entering the S21 detention centre, and when it was liberated by the Vietnamese only 7 people were found alive.  Only 12 bodies were found at the S21 site - rather than the killing field - they appeared to be shackled to their beds and set on fire as the Khmer Rouge guards fled during the final hours.

The country lost about 2 million of its 8 million population under Khmer Rouge rule and was set back in terms of economic and social development.  Afterwards it really began to register when we started looking for old people (50+) in Cambodia.  We didn't see a single one.  In Laos and Vietnam, seeing older people walking around, sitting around doing nothing, or still trying to sell us stuff was pretty common.  But there was none of that in Cambodia.  No grey hair, no 40 pound old ladies hauling around 200 pounds of goods to sell, no wrinkly old men with only one tooth.  Though Christina and I knew a bit of Cambodia's history going into the trip, it was unsettling to see the amount of time and energy put into making sure this killing machine was operating at peak efficiency.

As most educated westerners assume that the Holocaust during World War 2 is one of the most horrific examples of a ruling body systematically attempting to 'cleanse' a large population.  It is frightening to know that his has happened more recently elsewhere in the world and there was no big military push to fix the problem from any other countries.  Reading into the history of Cambodia it doesn't sound like anyone outside of the country really knew this was happening though.  Eventually the Khmer Rouge pissed off everyone in the area during their occupation and the Vietnamese were just the ones that got fed up with it first.   During the fight to push out the Khmer Rouge the Vietnamese unknowingly saved a handful of people from the path to the killing fields, and the rest of the population from forced slave labour in horrible conditions.

http://www.killingfieldsmuseum.com/s21-victims.html  (one of many, feel free to Google more sites)

Stupa monument at the Killing Fields
The above picture was the only one I took all day.  It looks like books on shelves inside the Stupa from this distance.  When we got closer, it actually contains skulls and bone fragments of about 900 of the bodies that they have found at the site.  Many more bodies and bone fragments are being held off site, and there are known to be several unexcavated mass grave locations still in this area.  The killing field area is so concentrated with human remains you can actually see bones half buried in the ground, and patches of clothing, just walking around.  The heavy rains here consistently help bring new remains to the surface over time.

Needless to say, it was a very intense day for the both of us.  Even now, still thinking about what these people went through, only a handful of years ago, is really hard to digest.  What makes them amazing though is how kind and forgiving they all are, to each other and to us, the foreigners.

Friday, January 10, 2014

Die Coconuts!

I (Allan) heard a bunch of rumors about being able to shoot several types of machine guns while in Cambodia.  So Max, Martjin (Stray friends) and I decided to go see how shady this Cambodian gun range would be.

The drive took us abot 45 minutes out of Phnom Penh down some dirt roads and behind an actual army base.  The driver got a little turned around on the way there (I think it was his first time) but in the end we arrived ready to go.

There are several such places all around Southeast Asia.  As you can imagine the rules around the use of guns are a little lax in these countries so there is a lot to choose from as a weapon.  There is actually a full on menu to look through when you get to these places.  You flip through it like you are looking for a burger and you can even get a few beers if you get thirsty.  Most of the guns are older, being what the Cambodian army is no longer using, and some were pretty badass.  Some of  the choices included M60 machine guns, anti-aircraft guns,  one small hand gun, AK47's, M16, grenades, and a rocket launcher.   Thats right, if you want to pay $400 US you can fire off a RPG into a hillside.  It sounded like a really great idea but Christina had already been shopping and our budget was all gone.  The grenades were about $50 US to throw.  You are not allowed to watch it explode though, you have to duck behind a wall and just hear it explode... more on ducks later on.  I forget what the AA gun costs.

This little guy really liked the automatic weapons.

I decided not to blow more than $100 on this litte adventure so I picked the AK47 with about 25 rounds, and a scope equiped Ruger rifle with 15.  Max went with the AK, a hand gun, and M60, Martijn stuck with just the AK.  This kind of stuff is pretty much tourist only so just firing those 2 guns alone was about $85.  Apparently they were out of paper targets, what a coincidence, but we could shoot at 5 coconuts for the bargin price of only $5 more.  Its a lot easier to swallow when you know its a scam going into it ;).


I see you coconuts.

I pictured a big open range with a pile of dirt or a few trees to shoot at but it was actually indoors with a pile of dirt at the end of a long tunnel, but now with coconuts!
Hunting rifles are loud, and have a fair amout of kick back, I knew this going in.  The AK47 is not quite as loud and with a bit less kickback - one bullet at at time - but that is boring.  I started taking the coconuts out in single fire mode and soon switched to full auto.  With 25 rounds and the gun resting in a cradle that made me fell like a bit of a sissy it was really hard to go all Rambo on the coconuts.  I can say it was worth the money though as this is definitely something you could never do in Canada.  After the high of the AK47 I used the Ruger.  Anyone that knows guns (not me) would have been able to correct me on this choice before I made it.  It was little better than a pellet gun and no coconuts exploded when hit.  I was under the impression it would have been higher power and more of a single shot high caliber sniper rifle.  To be honest I don't even know why they would offer it.  


AK47's are loud and way more fun in full auto mode.

Not one of my best life choices.

After I had finished off the rounds in the Ruger I got to watch Max use the M60.  Max had to lie down to use this gun and the bullets fed into the side on a belt.  It was by far a better choice than the Ruger for pure enjoyment.  The only problem was that it was full auto only and if you did not hit the coconut exactly you hit the dirt and it the targets became invisible, concealed by the amount of dust that was kicked up.  After the M60 Max shot the hand gun and was, as you would assume, let down by the hand gun (I don't even remeber the type).  The guide actually told us to take off the ear protection while Max was shooting the hand gun as it would not make a difference.

Martjn vs. coconuts.

Max' shooting position.

I think Martijn wished he did a second gun (I should have done a third) but thats how it goes on out here.  Martijn was travelling until he ran out of money, so sacrifices had to be made.  Max was heading back home in the next 2-3 weeks so he had a bit more of a surplus, and I had to support a baggy pant and bracelet habbit.  

So ducks - before heading out to the range in Cambodia Richard and Howard (friends from the Stray group) had already finished blowing things up, literally.  I'm not 100% sure where they did it but Richard fired off a machine gun at some trees and then paid extra to lob a grenade at 2 ducks.  I'm not a big fan of this but to each their own.  The best part about that is that with the Duck and Grenade package Rich got a bracelet that said 'Quack Quack Boom'.  Side note that bracelets are like the honor badges of the backpacker circuit, the more you have the more you have done.  Howard was with him and decided to go for the big gun and shoot the rocket launcher at a hillside.  If Howard wanted to he could have paid for the RPG and Cow package, I don't know what the braclet would have said.  It really goes to show that if you have the money in some places you can pretty much do anything you want.  Not to mention the attitude of Southeast Asia.  Animals are for eating, all of them (not an exaggeration).  So they are all going to die at some point or another.  Usually for food but if you pay for it you get to do what you want with it.  There are also rumours of having access to more questionable targets for shooting, if you pay for them.

My brief time in the Dutch Army

Type Type Boom

Thursday, January 9, 2014

Braving the Big City: Phnom Penh, Cambodia

The journey to find these big green doors!!
The guesthouse graden where we ate breakfast
One of our cross streets to the guesthouse
After a quick, uneventful minibus from Kratie to Phnom Penh, we were dropped off in the middle of the city to hoards of tuktuk drivers pounding on the glass of the minibus to get our attention.  Allan and I had been prepared for this type of attention so we quickly grabbed our bags and walked away from the bus stop to hail a tuktuk, elsewhere.  After negotiating on a price and having the tuktuk driver assure us he knew where our guesthouse was, we jump into our chariot and brave the insane traffic.

Grabbing a coconut for our journey
However, the tuktuk driver did not know where to take us.  Though we had an exact address and everything, we were unable to give him the correct cross streets.  As it turns out, to have a successful tuktuk ride in Phom Penh, you have to know EXACTLY where you are going or you probably won't get there.

The riverfront prommenade.  A hotel going up on the other side of the river
Our tuk tuk driver drove in circles for about 15 minutes and asked other drivers along the way where the guesthouse was situated.  Someone finally held the key to our stay and we were then navigated down a little back alley to a huge locked door with a simple sign stating "Alibi Guesthouse".  Sweet success.

The gate of the Royal Palace
Me with the Royal Palace
We checked in, were brought to a glorious room WITH hot water and a comfortable bed and literally had a quick cry to celebrate our good fortune.  (This guesthouse still remains one of my favorites, even now.)  After taking showers and changing clothes, we were out the door to investgate this large city.

Riverfront Buddhist Temple
The tourist area of Phnom Penh is riverfront and also surrounding many of the major sites of the city: The Royal Palace and Wat Phnom, just to name a couple.  We decided to walk the river prommenade and I am still so impressed with how clean and well kept the city was, especially knowing that 14.8 million people live in it.

From the rooftop patio, overlooking the prommenade
We walked, we took pictures, we navigated the streets, and we got lost.  Either way, it was a great introduction to Cambodia and our new home for the next 5 days...

 
Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...